Pina Colada in hand, I lay my head back in the hammock of our private cabana on a nearly deserted stretch of crystal water and white sand. We were watching the sun as it moved towards the horizon, and for the first time in a long time, I felt myself relax.
My time in Nicaragua has been many things – but relaxing is not one of them. Between the stresses of working in Nicaraguan public schools and the sweltering heat of inland Granada, my day-to-day life here is rewarding, yes, but not relaxing. Even the beaches I’ve visited on my weekend excursions have been wild. Rejuvenating? Definitely. But not relaxing.
By the time I made it to Morgan’s Rock I had spent nearly three months in Nicaragua, and I was exhausted.
I did a lot of research when looking for a place to take my family for Thanksgiving. They hadn’t spent a lot of time on the Pacific, so I started with the idea of introducing them to the west coast for a dip in this grand body of water. Still, the accommodations I had grown used to on Pacific beaches in Nicaragua – namely dorm rooms or beachside shacks – weren’t going to cut it for this bunch. My parents and brother only had a week to spend with me in Nicaragua, and I wanted to show them the best this country had to offer.
All signs pointed to Morgan’s Rock. My guidebook was the first to recommend it, but reviews online sealed the deal. A few weeks ahead of their arrival I made the reservation. From then on out, it was smooth sailing.
It’s hard to find good swimming beaches on Nicaragua’s Pacific coast. Everything that makes this place a world-class surfing destination makes for a somewhat scary swim. But Morgan’s Rock sits on a protected bay, and the waves come in small and gentle.
Even rarer a find within Nicaragua’s borders: a private beach. Morgan’s Rock owns all of the land surrounding the bay. What that means for visitors is no crowds, no music-blaring bars, no vendors trying to sell you things, no ramshackle buildings – just pristine shoreline.
The buildings that do exist at Morgan’s Rock are ecologically friendly and barely visible as you stroll the property. Materials are minimal inside the rooms as well, with most walls made of local material and screen, allowing easy access to the ocean breeze. There was no a/c in our cliff-cropped cabins. But we didn’t need it.
When enjoying Morgan’s Rock incredible beach and pool facilities becomes too much, there are plenty of other activities to enjoy – hikes around the property, kayaking through the estuary, surfing at nearby beaches, and lots and lots of animal sightings. My family spotted many beautiful tropical birds and even a sloth in the trees surrounding the property, and we awoke our last morning to the low calls of howler monkeys.
Good service is something I’ve found to be rare in Nicaragua. Even in nice restaurants waiters seem uninterested. But everyone knew my name at Morgan’s Rock. The staff was helpful and happy – maybe it’s what you might expect for the money you pay. But in my time in Nicaragua, I had learned not to set my expectations for service very high. Morgan’s Rock raised the bar to a ridiculous level.
So it’s not a cheap spot, okay. But with meals included, it’s not unreasonable. And come on, you get a bed like this:
And a view like this:
It’s a hard life, but somebody’s got to live it.